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Messages - Joe

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646
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: July 29, 2019, 08:38:22 pm »




This dude is a very respected S&C coach in the climbing community, and for strength stuff he is obsesses with intense ISOs (and also talks about how 'the literature' suggests those are good for tendon repair/avoiding/rehabbing tendonitis). The OACs in the second video are extremely clean, and he says he doesn't train "moving" OACs ever -- in light of that smashing out as good a set of 5 as I've ever seen is wild. Maybe I should incorporate some of this ISO stuff for OAC/chin training then...not sure. I guess the whole of grip training for climbing is ISO based.

I obvs can't hold an OAC isometric for 5+ seconds yet, but he recommends 2-arm ISOs are good too if you can't do them...

Adarq you're an ISO expert, what do you think?

Edit: main strength protocol he suggests: 1-2 x clusters of 4x5s hangs, near max intensity 30-60s rest inside the cluster

647
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: July 29, 2019, 07:32:33 pm »
Quote from: adarqui on July 29, 2019, 12:59:44 am
Quote from: Joe on July 23, 2019, 09:42:44 am
The soreness I get from climbing is really interesting. From my normal chinup training the soreness I get, when I get sore from it (which isn't very often), is localised to quite high up on my lats. From climbing the main soreness is rear delts and really low down on my lats, near where they insert at the hip.

reminds me of rings.

you don't do rings too much right? i'm going to get back on my rings soon. they make your abs contract much harder.

I don't do rings anymore, nah. Would be nice to have a setup, but there's no way to make them work with the pullup/dip tower that I have. Would be fun to do some front/back lever stuff and RTO dips, all that's good for helping prevent elbow injury.

648
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: a fast and explosive donkey!
« on: July 24, 2019, 12:57:49 pm »
Quote from: LBSS on July 24, 2019, 11:06:32 am
on the plus side, today i finally got into grad school (17th grade! scholastic level PR!) (also what up, joe, i'm moving to london) and my organization signed a multimillion-dollar grant that will enable us to do some great work.

Sweet. We'll have to go running together when you get here! Where are you going to be studying? I'm guessing SOAS?

649
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: July 24, 2019, 08:20:58 am »
24-07-19

BW - 71.8

Workout

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+16 x 1
+24 x 3
+27.75 x 3
+16 x 6
+11.75 x 6
+5 x 7
BW x 9

Hangs
HC@24mm x 5s
HC@21mm x 5s
HC@18mm -
BW x 7s
+2.5 x 7s
+5 x 5s
+3.75 x 7s
+2.5 x 7s
BW x 9s

One arm bar hangs
BW x 5s
+8 x 10s, 10s, 10s
BW x 20s

Dips
BW x  4
+8 x 3
+16 x 5
+24 x 4
+16 x 5
+8 x 8
BW x 12

SS1A Hollow Body Holds
BW x 20s [stricter form than usual]
+2.5 x 17s [1.25 in hands + 1.25 b/w feet]
+5 x 10s [2.5 in hands + 2.5 in feet]
+2.5 x 15s

SS1B German Hang
BW x 40s, 40s, 40s

Notes

Fun workout. Pulling/gripping stuff all felt pretty weak since I'm not recovered from Friday's OAC negatives yet, let alone from climbing on Monday. Anyway, good to overreach a bit before a holiday.

Managed 10 pullups at the end of climbing session on Monday, but only 9 chinups after today's sesh, tells you about the cumulative fatigue there.

Figured I'd get a benchmark on weighted hangs @ 18mm, even while fatigued. A 7s hang seems to be the gold standard for testing your max, and was mildly disappointed not to get that with +5kg -- didn't quite fail at 5s, but could sense that I wouldn't safely make 7s.

One arm hangs going to be a big addition, I think. Feels really good on lats/shoulder stability -- feels like it will help not just for OAC/chin strength generally, but also for those times when I need my shoulder/arm to be stable while I've reached really far to a hold while climbing. Right hand's grip feels much weaker than left, it wanted to open up a bit towards the end of the hangs which never happened with the left hand.

Dips felt really strong.


650
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: July 23, 2019, 09:42:44 am »
The soreness I get from climbing is really interesting. From my normal chinup training the soreness I get, when I get sore from it (which isn't very often), is localised to quite high up on my lats. From climbing the main soreness is rear delts and really low down on my lats, near where they insert at the hip.

651
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: July 22, 2019, 12:23:26 pm »
22-07-19

1'45" climbing session

Notes

Decent enough, didn't manage any particularly challenging climbs, but was still quite sore/weak from Saturday's workout. Will try to fit in a lifting sesh on Weds probably.

No issues with left elbow today, surprisingly! Had kind of been feeling it after the one arm negatives session, in the familiar old tendonitis-y way. Nothing major yesterday and then nothing at all today, even when pulling hard on the wall. Mysterious, but I'm not complaining.

652
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: July 20, 2019, 12:51:42 pm »
20-07-19

BW - 71.9kg

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+16 x 1
+24 x 1
+32 x 1
+40 x 1  :personal-record: :personal-record:
+43.75 x F [really fast pull to 90* then stuck, this will go pretty soon too]

OAC negatives
full rom x ~3s, ~4.5s  :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record:
bottom half x 2s

Deadhangs
HC@24mm x 5s
HC@21mm x 5s
HC@18mm x 5s
HC@15mm x 8s, 8s, 8s
3FD@15mm x 8s

One arm scap pulls
BW x 3, 3

Dips/KB OHP
BW x 5
+10.5 x 7, 7, 7

Hollow Body Hold
BW x 33s, 33s

Notes

 :wowthatwasnutswtf: :wowthatwasnutswtf: :wowthatwasnutswtf: :wowthatwasnutswtf: :wowthatwasnutswtf:

Maybe a dumb workout, but I had a feeling I was getting close to being able to do some meaningful one arm negatives. Had sort of internally decided I wouldn't bother with that until I'd hit 40kg on chinups first, though, so had to hit that. It moved really well so I decided to go up a bit more, should maybe have been less amibitious because 41.25/42.5 would almost definitely have gone, I think.

The OAC negatives felt fairly in control except for the very end bit of the ROM, so that's why I included the one arm scap pulls later in the workout. Need to get strong just hanging around on one arm and in the bottom bit of the ROM. My left shoulder impingement makes scap pulls feel a little funky if I do them lazily, though, so that's something I need to be careful of.

Deadhangs solid, didn't think I'd get to 3x8s on 15mm so quickly. When back from holiday I'll start weighted hangs on 18mm.

Likely only one more workout before I head on holiday. I'll do more volume than intensity that day, I think. Might be able to get two workouts in, though. Anyway, hopefully 10ish days of rest during which I do some elbow tendonitis repair focused eccentrics will put me in good stead to tackle the OAC properly.

Think if I stay uninjured and able to train this twice a week I'll have an OAC by the end of the year. Other than injury main impediment to this I foresee is that my chinning setup at home is not very convenient for OAC stuff, since it's one of those dip+chin stations. Means there's a lot of stuff very close to you all around you when chinning, so with having to twist a bit on OACs it's not very convenient.

Need to get out and run!! out all day tomorrow, so maybe monday..

stoked about this workout!

653
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: July 16, 2019, 12:43:43 pm »
16-07-19

BW - 71.4kg

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+16 x 1
+24 x 3, 3, 3

Deadhangs
HC@24mm x 5s
HC@21mm x 5s
HC@18mm x 10s, 10s, 10s
HC@15mm x 5s
3FD@21mm x 13s

Dips
BW x 4, 4
+8 (myo) x 10+3+3+3

Hollow Body
BW x 30s, 30s

Notes

Still a bit sore from Saturday, quite tired generally, but happy to get a decent session in. The 5s hang on 15mm was nice to hit.

Left elbow a little bit icky feeling, so shall be careful going forward. Am travelling for 10 days from next Thursday, so may just take that as more or less total rest and see if elbow feels good on return.

Ankle still not really 100%, which is annoying, but really should go for a run again soon.

654
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: July 13, 2019, 11:50:41 am »
13-07-19

2 hour climbing sesh, was nice. Ankle held up well.

655
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: July 12, 2019, 02:58:29 pm »
12-07-19

Didn't run today, but did a w/o with GF, teaching her how to do swings, get ups etc. Was fun, she enjoyed it. Also messed around with some front lever rows -- can pull to hips near bar in a full tuck, which is fun feeling.

Going climbing tomorrow, going to have to be careful not to jump off because of the ankle, so should be good way to force self to downclimb.

656
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: July 11, 2019, 01:20:11 pm »
Quote from: adarqui on July 07, 2019, 01:15:17 pm
damn almost a chin + 40kg, sick. that climber strenf building.

Quote from: Joe on July 07, 2019, 01:00:16 pm
Highgate 10k was fun last night, seeing Steph Twell pull it out late against Salpeter was extremely hype.

so you went to it?

sick!

almost under 31 min. 31:08 is a no-joke time. Especially when you consider McColgan (mostly a 5k runner tho) was over a minute slower.

flying.

(full results:
https://results.opentrack.run/x/2019/GBR/not/)

men's C is still under 30 min. ridiculous.

that's such a sick event.

forgot to reply to this, sorry!

yeah it's a cool event, i wasn't feeling 100% that eve so didn't make the most of it, but it's amazing seeing people so fast like right up close. The crowd was also extremely hyped for McColgan. The track had a green light running around the inside lane to indicate the Olympic A standard, so she was getting cheered on to beat that standard, which she destroyed over the last couple of laps.

657
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: July 11, 2019, 12:51:04 pm »
11-07-19

BW - 71.5

Workout

Chins
BW x 3
+ 8 x 2
+16 x 5
+24 x 4
+16 x 5, 5

Deadhangs
HC@24mm x 5s, 5s
HC@21mm x 5s
HC@18mm x 8s, 8s, 8s
3FD@18mm x 7s

Dips
BW x 5
+ 8 x 8, 8, 8

SS1A Kneeling Ab Wheel
BW x 10, 10, 10

SS1B German Hang
BW x 35s, 35s

Notes

Strong again today. Haven't hit +16x3x5 on chins yet, and I did it with a +24x4 in the middle, so that's nice. Deadhangs felt good too.

Bought an 8kg KB b/c (a) my GF wants to try out KB stuff and (b) it's the ideal weight to complete all the loading for chins/dips I'd ever need. Nice win-win.

Felt strong on ab wheel, alternating w/ hollow body stuff seems good.

Ankle still occasionally a bit buggy, but might go out for like a 15 min jog tmrw just to see how it holds up.

658
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: July 09, 2019, 03:59:09 pm »
Quote from: LBSS on July 09, 2019, 12:32:55 pm
is there a reason you're doing chins rather than pull ups? i'd imagine pull ups have a more direct carryover to climbing because there's little to no pronated gripping on the wall.

Good question.

I find pullups a bit more tweaky on my elbows than chinups, and tbh my main goal is OAC moreso than getting better at climbing for the meanwhile (esp while ankle is still preventing me from climbing). Also I can move more weight so this feeds the ego, haha.

659
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: ADARQ's journal
« on: July 07, 2019, 01:09:25 pm »
Quote from: adarqui on July 07, 2019, 02:06:14 am
that area I ran today was part of a little experiment. I've always loved running at this park, but wanted to see more of the area. It's impressive, basically 3 parks strung together where you can run on grass for pretty much all of it (~5 mi in one direction) - a runner's paradise for a Floridian. And it's near the everglades, so theoretically you can trek across some path and get to the everglades, and run on the embankment etc.. (which is kinda scary, but people do it - mostly cyclists ride out there).

in addition to that, it has nature areas (boardwalk-ish stuff throughout some forests), tons of lakes/canals, a water park, 3 dog parks, an amphitheater, and they hold state h.s./college XC meets there.

pretty sick.

it's a really beautiful area.. and unfortunately very expensive. but an affordable option pops up occasionally, luckily.

so long story short.. i'm trying to find a place out there. it's all homes near the park, no apartments etc.. so i've actually been looking to rent a house.

tried touring a few but they got rented out. going to tour one tomorrow which I actually like better than the other two. the back yard (beyond the fence and small canal) is basically right on the "everglades" (a huge portion of land which leads directly to the everglades).

i've checked out some apartments near work, "big city" life just isn't for me -> especially with two very active dogs. It's only slightly cheaper too.. the apartments near the beach (near my work) are pretty expensive. I hated having to use an elevator, and hearing the sounds of the city -> music from various restaurants, traffic, etc. Down by the swamp, you hear bugs/birds/nothingness, it's great.

so instead of finding a spot near work, i'm trying to find a spot near the swamp (20 min from work lmao, which is still closer than I am now (40 min)). i want to heal up, and just run/relax out there. lots of peace & quiet, not much traffic at all, safe, dog friendly, etc. If I lived out there & my injuries were healed, I could get my mileage way up very safely (all soft surfaces) with tons of visual stimulation because of how many different grass spots you can run.

i've been obsessing about this for a month or so.. want to find something soon & setup shop.

also, no roomates/living with family members etc. just me, 2 pups, and some long overdo relaxation.

 :ninja: :ninja: :ninja: :ibrunning:

#lifestuff

 :derp:

Sounds so nice. I sometimes get a bit overwhelmed living in a big city, and even though where I am is pretty quiet as far as relatively central London goes, I miss proper quiet. Hope I can move out to the country side one day.

660
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: July 07, 2019, 01:00:16 pm »
07-07-19

BW - 71.9kg

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+5 x 2
+16 x 2
+24 x 1
+29 x 1
+40 x F (pulled to halfway)
+40 eccentrics x 12s, 10s, 10s

WG Pullups
+5 x 6

Deadhangs
HC@24mm x 5s, 5s
HC@21mm x 5s
HC@18mm x 6s, 6s, 6s [stopping well short of failure]

Dips
BW x 5
+5 (myo) x 12+3+3+3

KB OHP
16 x 8, 8

Hollow Body Hold
BW x 22s, 20s, 20s
hands by side x 30s

Notes

Played around a bit with chins. Plan was to try out heavy eccentrics, but on a whim I decided to attempt a single at the planned eccentric weight. Didn't think I'd manage the +40kg chinup, but it was actually super close. Pulled out of the bottom very fast but got stuck halfway (i.e. with upper arms parallel to ground). Just 90s rest between the eccentric sets, they weren't particularly near failure, either, and were super under control.

Really happy with how grip stuff felt! 6s on 18mm was also super under control and not that near failure.

Dips strong, +2 reps from last time.

A more traditional lifting session next time, probably.

Ankle still not 100%, but feeling good about running in a couple days, have managed to do like little jogs to cross a street quickly, or whatever, without issue, but am still taking it slow.

Highgate 10k was fun last night, seeing Steph Twell pull it out late against Salpeter was extremely hype.

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