Author Topic: warpspeed to the new scenario  (Read 55831 times)

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Joe

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #750 on: February 13, 2020, 08:30:45 am »
+1
13-02-20

Finger progressing well. Will have a light climb on Saturday, I think, to see how it is.

Working on shoulder stuff as well. Wall slides seem essential. Always know that I ought to be doing them, but never have the consistency for it. Did a short set today and, shit, my lats are so tight. Traps/external rotators burning just from holding arms against the wall in the top position. Got to master this!
"i threaten to kill myself whenever my parnets tell me to get a job" - bjpenn

Joe

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #751 on: February 15, 2020, 01:08:14 pm »
+1
15-02-20

Climbing

~2 hours

Phew! If I'm careful with my route selection I can basically avoid pain. Made a silly choice near the end and felt some pain, but it subsided quickly, so I'm feeling positive. Will see how everything is tomorrow -- possibly it was just being warm meant I couldn't feel pain, but I'm optimistic.

Did some OAC negatives/lock off @ 90/120* during the session, can hold those lock off for 5+ seconds now solidly, which is nice.
"i threaten to kill myself whenever my parnets tell me to get a job" - bjpenn

Joe

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #752 on: February 16, 2020, 01:25:35 pm »
+1
16-02-20

Finger feeling better today than yesterday after session, and feeling like it's recovering in general, so that's good.

Quite sore, but not as bad as I would have thought, given I hadn't cllimbed for a week and did some heavy OAC stuff. No forearm soreness at all -- that's less surprising, since I didn't really do any super grip intensive stuff, owing to finger.

My GF got me a pinch block as a gift, which I have had some fun playing around with today. Just tying my weights to it, since I don't have a loading pin -- may get one of those in future, but this system is working fine for now. Pinch feels like a weakness for me in climbing, so this will be a fun way to work on it. Despite it being open hand, it didn't cause any pain for my injured finger, so that's nice.
"i threaten to kill myself whenever my parnets tell me to get a job" - bjpenn

Joe

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #753 on: February 17, 2020, 11:10:50 am »
0
17-02-20

BW - 70.0

Workout

Some chins/scap pulls/serratus pushups etc to warm up

Deadhangs
HC@24mm
BW x 3s, 3s, 5s
HC@21mm
BW x 5s
HC@18mm
BW x 1s, 3s
HC@15mm
BW x 3s

Repeaters
HC@18mm
2 x 5 x (6 on / 3 off) -- Pretty close to failure on second set

Pinch block
5 x 5s
8 x 5s
10.5 x 5s
13 x 5s, 5s, 5s

Foot elevated pushbacks [https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PLAD357FF6D01777E3&v=neypL5llLxY]
BW x 6, 6

Pushbacks
BW x 8, 8

Notes

This finger injury is so weird to me. I can (half) crimp basically near max with no pain, but open hand is excruciating. Anyway, feels like the open hand part is recovering along too, and it's nice to be still be able to train other things hard (seems the consensus is it is good to keep training other aspects of finger strength while this is recovering, as far as I can tell).

Pinch block fun as heck to train with. Don't really know what the gold standard is, but I guess getting to around 50% BW is a good goal, since that means you could hang off two of them without the benefit of compression, theoretically. (having looked this up, half bw is pretty elite, lmao -- yeah, elite climber Magnus Midbto, who weighs abt my weight, does ~41kg on this on the IronMind one [mine is grip genie -- idk which is easier/harder])

Pushbacks seem to really get my serratus going, and are pretty tough. Need to be doing more scapular strengthening stuff, esp for antagonist things like pushups, since that feels like a weakness and is potentially implicated in the shoulder pain I've been having.

Weight going up slowly -- not really bothered, think it is slow enough + I have been training (hard) enough that it probably means a decent amount of it is muscle. GF says I'm looking thicker so I'll take her word for it. Hoping to reap the benefits when I cut in 4-6 weeks.

Rest tmrw, climb Wednesday probably.
« Last Edit: February 17, 2020, 11:22:17 am by Joe »
"i threaten to kill myself whenever my parnets tell me to get a job" - bjpenn

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #754 on: February 19, 2020, 12:15:11 pm »
+2
19-02-20

Climbing

~1.5 hours

meh

felt strong, etc, but just couldn't crank on right hand today, alas. kept it pretty light. hopefully has a rehabilitative effect, getting blood flow, etc. a bunch of cool routes at this gym i really wanted to try hard on -- hopefully hand is recovered before they're reset

Did some OAC work, something like this

ISO @ 90/120*
BW x RLRLRL, RLRLRL, RLRL
then an eccentric on each arm from 90* to straight

after that I did two sets of doubles of weighted pullups to see where i was with that. 32kg was very easy, and 36kg was also pretty easy. happy to hit that for a double. never really trained pullups, and haven't really done any weighted chins for ages, so that i can hit an easy double @ over 50% bw is nice. Maybe i should be doing weighted pullups just to work more brute strength, dunno. Anyway, that's a solid ~106kg x 2 on pullups, iirc my chinup PB was 114.6 x 1, so i reckon i can probably beat that now. get back down to 65kg and i'll be storming.

shoulder have felt great lately -- attribute that to those pushbacks, i guess?



« Last Edit: February 19, 2020, 12:18:07 pm by Joe »
"i threaten to kill myself whenever my parnets tell me to get a job" - bjpenn

Joe

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #755 on: February 21, 2020, 11:42:14 am »
+1
21-02-20

Rehab workout

pinch
8kg x 30s, 30s, 30s, 30s

Hang on fingerboard jug
BW x 30s, 30s, 30s

+ rice bucket, etc
"i threaten to kill myself whenever my parnets tell me to get a job" - bjpenn

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #756 on: February 24, 2020, 08:01:50 am »
+1
24-02-20

Climbing

~90 mins

including rehab hangs (4 x ~30s on easy slopers) + some OAC isos.

finger still maybe like 70%.
"i threaten to kill myself whenever my parnets tell me to get a job" - bjpenn

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #757 on: February 27, 2020, 08:12:59 am »
0
27-02-20

Climbing

~90 mins

Finger feeling a little better yet again. Getting psyched for when I can give full efforts with it again.
"i threaten to kill myself whenever my parnets tell me to get a job" - bjpenn

Joe

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #758 on: February 28, 2020, 09:21:10 am »
+1
BW- 69.4

Workout

Pushups
BW x 10, 10

Pushbacks
BW x 18, 16, 15

Pinch Block Holds
8 x 5s, 5s
10.5 x 3s
13 x 3s, 3s, 5s, 5s
8 x 40s

SS1A IYWs
lower traps on left side so weak, must sort that out!

SS1B 4 Finger Open Hand Hangs
BW@24mm x 15s, 15s,  15s

Notes

Feels kind of bonkers how weak shoulder stability stuff is on left side.

Doing some light grip stuff, a bit weak obvs since I climbed yesterday, but not sure I'll make it to climbing gym this weekend so felt like tacking it on to a shoulder rehab focussed sesh.

Left shoulder a bit sore after yesteday's climb -- think a particular gaston move I ended up trying it was tweaked it -- just no good in wide positions. Shuold recover up.  Need to be doing my IWYs and pushups more regularly.

Felt kind of flabby lately, but BW is stable -- might be psychological (ate a lot of candy last few days, haha), but not sure.
"i threaten to kill myself whenever my parnets tell me to get a job" - bjpenn

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #759 on: March 02, 2020, 09:22:34 am »
0
02-03-20

Climbing

~90 minutes.

Can pull harder with right hand still, but three finger grip is still excruciating on it, so trying super hard is not quite possible since there's also a chance my pinkey will slip. Might try buddy taping ring and pinkey finger together for future sessions.

Spent lots of time on v steep problems/roof climbing. Fun.
"i threaten to kill myself whenever my parnets tell me to get a job" - bjpenn

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #760 on: March 02, 2020, 12:37:38 pm »
+1
A test it never occurred to me to do to see how recovery is coming along, but which I now did.

Core idea: the worst part of the injury is my ability to three finger drag (hang from three fingers) without pain. So I set up my scale underneath my hangboard to see how much weight I could load before pain began. Was about 35kg, so half BW. Got to progress this number.

A common protocol for pulley injuries is to gradually load them to just before the painful load, but since this is a lumbrical/muscle injury rather than a tendon one, I'm less sure of that protocol. Any thoughts about recovering muscle strains?  In any case, if I do pursue that method, I guessed I'd be aiming at like 3-5x10-30s at non-painful load, checking how much I'm weighting with the scale each week. Edit: skimming some stuff suggests progressive loading is used/useful for muscle strain recovery too, so guess i will be doing this.
« Last Edit: March 02, 2020, 12:43:33 pm by Joe »
"i threaten to kill myself whenever my parnets tell me to get a job" - bjpenn

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #761 on: March 02, 2020, 05:13:56 pm »
0
Also, also, since I can't really push training super hard at the mo, might go on a mini cut through March to see where that puts me leanness wise. Think that's probably prudent? Shouldn't interfere with injury recovery too much, I hope.
"i threaten to kill myself whenever my parnets tell me to get a job" - bjpenn

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #762 on: March 03, 2020, 12:27:27 pm »
+2
BW - 70.2

Workout

Pushups
BW x 10, 10

Pushbacks
BW x 20, 18

Pullups
BW x 5, 5, 5, 5 [easy, focussing on pulling to chest, controlled lowering and deadhangs + scap pull/scap control]

Pinch block holds
8 x 5s, 5s
13 x 7s

Pinch block reps
13 x 3, 3, 3 [feels way harder to do three reps of a weight than to hold it for 7s, guess the hard part is having the tension to load initially, rather than to hold it -- makes sense, it's a bit like training RFD/contact strength, I guess. Can't even pick up 16kg yet, but probably possible once i can do 13x6 or so, i think]

3FD Rehab Hangs
~43kg assistance x 15s, 15s, 15s [set scale up under hangboard and stood on it -- assistance listed is the weight shown on the scale]
« Last Edit: March 03, 2020, 12:37:56 pm by Joe »
"i threaten to kill myself whenever my parnets tell me to get a job" - bjpenn

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #763 on: March 05, 2020, 08:03:52 am »
+2
05-03-20

Climbing

~90 mins

Finger didn't really bother me once warmed up, which was nice. Also managed to avoid ever accidentally slipping into a 3 finger hold on the right hand, so I didn't do anything to aggravate it either.

Sent some new hard-ish boulders, which was fun.

Also did: Pullups +20 x 4, 4, 4
« Last Edit: March 05, 2020, 08:16:02 am by Joe »
"i threaten to kill myself whenever my parnets tell me to get a job" - bjpenn

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #764 on: March 08, 2020, 02:49:08 pm »
+2
BW - 69.5

Workout

Pullups
BW x 3, 3, 3
+8 x 2
+16 x 2
+24 x 1
+32 x 2, 2, 2
+24 x 3 [wider grip]

Pinch Block
8 x 3s, 3s
10.5 x 3s
13 x 3s

Pinch Block Reps
13 x 4, 4, 4
10.5 x 12

3FD Rehab Hangs
~37kg assist x 15s, 15s, 15s

Pushbacks
BW x 10

Foot Elevated Pushbacks
BW x 8, 8

Notes

When I did 4x2 @ +32 (@ 68kg) I was able to do a ~47kg chinup, and I defo had a 4th set of 2 in me at 32 on these today, so wonder what I can hit on a pullup. Much prefer doing pullups on the setup at my gym than at home, skinny bar + being forced to grip either narrower or wider than my preferred spot because of the structure of my bar. I whine about this too much, tbf, but it is annoying.

Lots of progress on the rehab hangs as compared to last time, which is nice! Still a long way to go to being able to just hang without pain at bodyweight this way, but going from 45 to 37 assist in a week makes me feel optimistic!

Left feels a lot more solid on pinches, which i guess is not surprsing.
« Last Edit: March 08, 2020, 05:05:20 pm by Joe »
"i threaten to kill myself whenever my parnets tell me to get a job" - bjpenn