Author Topic: warpspeed to the new scenario  (Read 254115 times)

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Joe

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #615 on: July 09, 2019, 03:59:09 pm »
+3
is there a reason you're doing chins rather than pull ups? i'd imagine pull ups have a more direct carryover to climbing because there's little to no pronated gripping on the wall.

Good question.

I find pullups a bit more tweaky on my elbows than chinups, and tbh my main goal is OAC moreso than getting better at climbing for the meanwhile (esp while ankle is still preventing me from climbing). Also I can move more weight so this feeds the ego, haha.
"i threaten to kill myself whenever my parnets tell me to get a job" - bjpenn

Joe

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #616 on: July 11, 2019, 12:51:04 pm »
+1
11-07-19

BW - 71.5

Workout

Chins
BW x 3
+ 8 x 2
+16 x 5
+24 x 4
+16 x 5, 5

Deadhangs
HC@24mm x 5s, 5s
HC@21mm x 5s
HC@18mm x 8s, 8s, 8s
3FD@18mm x 7s

Dips
BW x 5
+ 8 x 8, 8, 8

SS1A Kneeling Ab Wheel
BW x 10, 10, 10

SS1B German Hang
BW x 35s, 35s

Notes

Strong again today. Haven't hit +16x3x5 on chins yet, and I did it with a +24x4 in the middle, so that's nice. Deadhangs felt good too.

Bought an 8kg KB b/c (a) my GF wants to try out KB stuff and (b) it's the ideal weight to complete all the loading for chins/dips I'd ever need. Nice win-win.

Felt strong on ab wheel, alternating w/ hollow body stuff seems good.

Ankle still occasionally a bit buggy, but might go out for like a 15 min jog tmrw just to see how it holds up.
« Last Edit: July 11, 2019, 12:53:14 pm by Joe »
"i threaten to kill myself whenever my parnets tell me to get a job" - bjpenn

Joe

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #617 on: July 11, 2019, 01:20:11 pm »
+1
damn almost a chin + 40kg, sick. that climber strenf building.

Highgate 10k was fun last night, seeing Steph Twell pull it out late against Salpeter was extremely hype.

so you went to it?

sick!

almost under 31 min. 31:08 is a no-joke time. Especially when you consider McColgan (mostly a 5k runner tho) was over a minute slower.

flying.

(full results:
https://results.opentrack.run/x/2019/GBR/not/)

men's C is still under 30 min. ridiculous.

that's such a sick event.

forgot to reply to this, sorry!

yeah it's a cool event, i wasn't feeling 100% that eve so didn't make the most of it, but it's amazing seeing people so fast like right up close. The crowd was also extremely hyped for McColgan. The track had a green light running around the inside lane to indicate the Olympic A standard, so she was getting cheered on to beat that standard, which she destroyed over the last couple of laps.
"i threaten to kill myself whenever my parnets tell me to get a job" - bjpenn

adarqui

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #618 on: July 11, 2019, 09:55:34 pm »
+1
damn almost a chin + 40kg, sick. that climber strenf building.

Highgate 10k was fun last night, seeing Steph Twell pull it out late against Salpeter was extremely hype.

so you went to it?

sick!

almost under 31 min. 31:08 is a no-joke time. Especially when you consider McColgan (mostly a 5k runner tho) was over a minute slower.

flying.

(full results:
https://results.opentrack.run/x/2019/GBR/not/)

men's C is still under 30 min. ridiculous.

that's such a sick event.

forgot to reply to this, sorry!

yeah it's a cool event, i wasn't feeling 100% that eve so didn't make the most of it, but it's amazing seeing people so fast like right up close. The crowd was also extremely hyped for McColgan. The track had a green light running around the inside lane to indicate the Olympic A standard, so she was getting cheered on to beat that standard, which she destroyed over the last couple of laps.

yea that light is awesome & so are the pyrotechnics.

man what a sick event.

hopefully more events pop up like that. big respect to them for showing every1 how it's done.

Joe

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #619 on: July 12, 2019, 02:58:29 pm »
+3
12-07-19

Didn't run today, but did a w/o with GF, teaching her how to do swings, get ups etc. Was fun, she enjoyed it. Also messed around with some front lever rows -- can pull to hips near bar in a full tuck, which is fun feeling.

Going climbing tomorrow, going to have to be careful not to jump off because of the ankle, so should be good way to force self to downclimb.
"i threaten to kill myself whenever my parnets tell me to get a job" - bjpenn

Joe

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #620 on: July 13, 2019, 11:50:41 am »
+4
13-07-19

2 hour climbing sesh, was nice. Ankle held up well.
"i threaten to kill myself whenever my parnets tell me to get a job" - bjpenn

Joe

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #621 on: July 16, 2019, 12:43:43 pm »
+3
16-07-19

BW - 71.4kg

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+16 x 1
+24 x 3, 3, 3

Deadhangs
HC@24mm x 5s
HC@21mm x 5s
HC@18mm x 10s, 10s, 10s
HC@15mm x 5s
3FD@21mm x 13s

Dips
BW x 4, 4
+8 (myo) x 10+3+3+3

Hollow Body
BW x 30s, 30s

Notes

Still a bit sore from Saturday, quite tired generally, but happy to get a decent session in. The 5s hang on 15mm was nice to hit.

Left elbow a little bit icky feeling, so shall be careful going forward. Am travelling for 10 days from next Thursday, so may just take that as more or less total rest and see if elbow feels good on return.

Ankle still not really 100%, which is annoying, but really should go for a run again soon.
« Last Edit: July 16, 2019, 12:51:44 pm by Joe »
"i threaten to kill myself whenever my parnets tell me to get a job" - bjpenn

Joe

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #622 on: July 20, 2019, 12:51:42 pm »
+2
20-07-19

BW - 71.9kg

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+16 x 1
+24 x 1
+32 x 1
+40 x 1  :personal-record: :personal-record:
+43.75 x F [really fast pull to 90* then stuck, this will go pretty soon too]

OAC negatives
full rom x ~3s, ~4.5s  :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record:
bottom half x 2s

Deadhangs
HC@24mm x 5s
HC@21mm x 5s
HC@18mm x 5s
HC@15mm x 8s, 8s, 8s
3FD@15mm x 8s

One arm scap pulls
BW x 3, 3

Dips/KB OHP
BW x 5
+10.5 x 7, 7, 7

Hollow Body Hold
BW x 33s, 33s

Notes

 :wowthatwasnutswtf: :wowthatwasnutswtf: :wowthatwasnutswtf: :wowthatwasnutswtf: :wowthatwasnutswtf:

Maybe a dumb workout, but I had a feeling I was getting close to being able to do some meaningful one arm negatives. Had sort of internally decided I wouldn't bother with that until I'd hit 40kg on chinups first, though, so had to hit that. It moved really well so I decided to go up a bit more, should maybe have been less amibitious because 41.25/42.5 would almost definitely have gone, I think.

The OAC negatives felt fairly in control except for the very end bit of the ROM, so that's why I included the one arm scap pulls later in the workout. Need to get strong just hanging around on one arm and in the bottom bit of the ROM. My left shoulder impingement makes scap pulls feel a little funky if I do them lazily, though, so that's something I need to be careful of.

Deadhangs solid, didn't think I'd get to 3x8s on 15mm so quickly. When back from holiday I'll start weighted hangs on 18mm.

Likely only one more workout before I head on holiday. I'll do more volume than intensity that day, I think. Might be able to get two workouts in, though. Anyway, hopefully 10ish days of rest during which I do some elbow tendonitis repair focused eccentrics will put me in good stead to tackle the OAC properly.

Think if I stay uninjured and able to train this twice a week I'll have an OAC by the end of the year. Other than injury main impediment to this I foresee is that my chinning setup at home is not very convenient for OAC stuff, since it's one of those dip+chin stations. Means there's a lot of stuff very close to you all around you when chinning, so with having to twist a bit on OACs it's not very convenient.

Need to get out and run!! out all day tomorrow, so maybe monday..

stoked about this workout!
"i threaten to kill myself whenever my parnets tell me to get a job" - bjpenn

adarqui

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #623 on: July 21, 2019, 02:18:35 am »
+1
damn nice!

OAC by end of year would be sick.

i def feel like one arm hanging would be very effective. those are pretty tough. i imagine u could make good strength gains on that quick, it seems like one of those untapepd natural movements.

i never do single arm hangs, my handles are metal and thin, even with two hands my hands get wrecked before my lats. i need some rubber covers or something. if my metal handles were thicker, i think it'd be more bearable. like those pullup bars at parks, usually feel petty good. i might look into a dip/pullup station eventually (in case i land in a new spot - don't want to take my rack there).

Joe

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #624 on: July 22, 2019, 12:23:26 pm »
+1
22-07-19

1'45" climbing session

Notes

Decent enough, didn't manage any particularly challenging climbs, but was still quite sore/weak from Saturday's workout. Will try to fit in a lifting sesh on Weds probably.

No issues with left elbow today, surprisingly! Had kind of been feeling it after the one arm negatives session, in the familiar old tendonitis-y way. Nothing major yesterday and then nothing at all today, even when pulling hard on the wall. Mysterious, but I'm not complaining.
« Last Edit: July 22, 2019, 12:43:57 pm by Joe »
"i threaten to kill myself whenever my parnets tell me to get a job" - bjpenn

Joe

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #625 on: July 23, 2019, 09:42:44 am »
+1
The soreness I get from climbing is really interesting. From my normal chinup training the soreness I get, when I get sore from it (which isn't very often), is localised to quite high up on my lats. From climbing the main soreness is rear delts and really low down on my lats, near where they insert at the hip.
"i threaten to kill myself whenever my parnets tell me to get a job" - bjpenn

Joe

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #626 on: July 24, 2019, 08:20:58 am »
+2
24-07-19

BW - 71.8

Workout

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+16 x 1
+24 x 3
+27.75 x 3
+16 x 6
+11.75 x 6
+5 x 7
BW x 9

Hangs
HC@24mm x 5s
HC@21mm x 5s
HC@18mm -
BW x 7s
+2.5 x 7s
+5 x 5s
+3.75 x 7s
+2.5 x 7s
BW x 9s

One arm bar hangs
BW x 5s
+8 x 10s, 10s, 10s
BW x 20s

Dips
BW x  4
+8 x 3
+16 x 5
+24 x 4
+16 x 5
+8 x 8
BW x 12

SS1A Hollow Body Holds
BW x 20s [stricter form than usual]
+2.5 x 17s [1.25 in hands + 1.25 b/w feet]
+5 x 10s [2.5 in hands + 2.5 in feet]
+2.5 x 15s

SS1B German Hang
BW x 40s, 40s, 40s

Notes

Fun workout. Pulling/gripping stuff all felt pretty weak since I'm not recovered from Friday's OAC negatives yet, let alone from climbing on Monday. Anyway, good to overreach a bit before a holiday.

Managed 10 pullups at the end of climbing session on Monday, but only 9 chinups after today's sesh, tells you about the cumulative fatigue there.

Figured I'd get a benchmark on weighted hangs @ 18mm, even while fatigued. A 7s hang seems to be the gold standard for testing your max, and was mildly disappointed not to get that with +5kg -- didn't quite fail at 5s, but could sense that I wouldn't safely make 7s.

One arm hangs going to be a big addition, I think. Feels really good on lats/shoulder stability -- feels like it will help not just for OAC/chin strength generally, but also for those times when I need my shoulder/arm to be stable while I've reached really far to a hold while climbing. Right hand's grip feels much weaker than left, it wanted to open up a bit towards the end of the hangs which never happened with the left hand.

Dips felt really strong.

« Last Edit: July 24, 2019, 08:48:43 am by Joe »
"i threaten to kill myself whenever my parnets tell me to get a job" - bjpenn

adarqui

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #627 on: July 29, 2019, 12:59:44 am »
+1
The soreness I get from climbing is really interesting. From my normal chinup training the soreness I get, when I get sore from it (which isn't very often), is localised to quite high up on my lats. From climbing the main soreness is rear delts and really low down on my lats, near where they insert at the hip.

reminds me of rings.

you don't do rings too much right? i'm going to get back on my rings soon. they make your abs contract much harder.

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #628 on: July 29, 2019, 07:32:33 pm »
+1
The soreness I get from climbing is really interesting. From my normal chinup training the soreness I get, when I get sore from it (which isn't very often), is localised to quite high up on my lats. From climbing the main soreness is rear delts and really low down on my lats, near where they insert at the hip.

reminds me of rings.

you don't do rings too much right? i'm going to get back on my rings soon. they make your abs contract much harder.

I don't do rings anymore, nah. Would be nice to have a setup, but there's no way to make them work with the pullup/dip tower that I have. Would be fun to do some front/back lever stuff and RTO dips, all that's good for helping prevent elbow injury.
"i threaten to kill myself whenever my parnets tell me to get a job" - bjpenn

Joe

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Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« Reply #629 on: July 29, 2019, 08:38:22 pm »
0




This dude is a very respected S&C coach in the climbing community, and for strength stuff he is obsesses with intense ISOs (and also talks about how 'the literature' suggests those are good for tendon repair/avoiding/rehabbing tendonitis). The OACs in the second video are extremely clean, and he says he doesn't train "moving" OACs ever -- in light of that smashing out as good a set of 5 as I've ever seen is wild. Maybe I should incorporate some of this ISO stuff for OAC/chin training then...not sure. I guess the whole of grip training for climbing is ISO based.

I obvs can't hold an OAC isometric for 5+ seconds yet, but he recommends 2-arm ISOs are good too if you can't do them...

Adarq you're an ISO expert, what do you think?

Edit: main strength protocol he suggests: 1-2 x clusters of 4x5s hangs, near max intensity 30-60s rest inside the cluster
« Last Edit: July 30, 2019, 08:21:03 am by Joe »
"i threaten to kill myself whenever my parnets tell me to get a job" - bjpenn