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Messages - Joe

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556
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 15, 2020, 08:01:05 am »
Have been feeling a lot less sore after climbing sessions lately, which is great. Especially as the sessions have regularly been pretty long lately, exceeding two hours. Very happy about this, as I was sort of worried that I would just always be mega sore even after moderate sessions and never be able to up volume. Silly, I know, but the soreness just felt like it was going that way. Guess it just took longer to adapt to climbing soreness since the movements are so varied, as compared to running or lifting. Might still aim to keep climbs <2 hours, as they stop being super productive for me after about 90 mins -- power output so much lower that I can't feel go full effort after that point, and the injury rate is defo higher when climbing in a fatigued state. However, climbing is super fun, esp with people, so it's hard to stop!

557
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 14, 2020, 11:33:24 am »
14/01/2020

Climbing

~2.5 hours

Nice sesh. Tried to stay off crimpy things/things that required a lot of weight on right finger, which I think was prudent. Finger slightly more sore at end of session than before it, but still less sore than it was yesterday or on Sunday, so that seems fine to me.

Obviously still quite fatigued from Sunday, and powered out quite quickly this sesh, but still gave a bunch of things a try.

Might train Friday (may not do any hangs if finger still feels tweaky), and then climb Sunday.

Edit: got a brachioradialis cramp during this sesh, which i've never had before. gnarly!

558
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 12, 2020, 12:27:37 pm »
12/01/20

Climbing

~2 hours

Did some more technique focussed/drill style warmups for first 45 mins, fun stuff. Climbing one legged to really focus on flags/balance, trying climbs super slow vs super fast to see when each works. Was nice to have some more focus.

Last remnants of cold still there, so felt a bit wretched at points.

Almost managed human flag at end of session, when v fatigued (had done some circuit routes on overhanging walls the really drained endurance + did a good OAC eccentric on each arm). Will try again when fresh at some point, would love to have that skill again.

Mildly tweaked right ring finger between 1st and 2nd knuckle. It's slightly tender to the touch, but doesn't hurt to move it or load it or hang/climb, etc., so hopefully that clears up quickly.

559
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 09, 2020, 11:45:31 am »
BW - 69.6

09/01/2020

Pullups
BW x 3, 3, 3

Super Wide Grip Arched Back Pullups
BW x 4, 4, 4, 4

Hangs
HC@24mm
BW x 5s, 5s
HC@21mm
BW x 5s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
 
Repeaters
HC@18mm
BW x 2 x 6x(5 on/5 off) [last two "on" periods of second set a bit dodgy tbh]
3FD@18mm
BW x 6x(4 on/6 off) [don't like this grip as much for long/repeated holds, feel a bit more tweaky fwiw]

Dips
BW x 5
+8 x 6, 6

KB OHP
16 x 6, 6

Kneeling Ab Wheel
BW x 8, 8

Notes

Mostly recovered from cold, but not 100%. Similarly still feeling a little sore/achey, so pulls/hangs wise did a different workout. The super wide grip pullups feel very specific to quite a few climbing movements, so I like those. Did them submaximally, which was a nice change of pace.

Think I will make repeaters the main form of hang training I do rather than more max hangs, just for a cycle or two, work up to being able to manage like 5x(7on/3off) @ 18mm.

Climbing Sunday, hopefully.

560
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 08, 2020, 11:52:03 am »
have a cold, bleh. still sore from sunday actually, probs exacerbated by the cold, but enforced rest probs not too bad an idea anyway

561
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 05, 2020, 01:56:26 pm »
05-01-2020

Climbing

~2.5 hours

Spent mostly trying lots of hard stuff. Tore some skin on left ring finger, but not too bad. Still sore from the Sun/Tue/Thur burst of training, to be honest, so power wasn't really there. Was close-ish on a black (the tier above blue) route -- if I'm fully rested I think I might be able to manage it. Think I checked off another blue, and a few whites/wasps.

Need to work out how to balance OAC/strength training with climbing. Might alternate between 2 climbs / 1 lift and 1 climb / 2 lift weeks until I have the OAC? Anyway, I'm not sure I'll be able to put in a good effort at anything this week until maybe Wednesday (or possibly even Thursday, unless recovery rate picks up), so might only get 2 sessions in this week.


562
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 02, 2020, 06:00:50 pm »
02-01-2020

Climbing

~2 hours

Mostly trying hard stuff. Was with three friends -- two about my level (maybe a touch better, but we can all attempt similar routes), one a beginner. Really nice bouncing ideas about to try routes off each other/motivating each other to try hard. Never really trained in a group before, but these guys have a good mindset, so it's nice. Going again w/ them on Sunday.

Quite sore from Tuesday/Sunday. Every other day is pretty tough for climbing stuff. Glad to be getting two full rest days before next session -- hoping to be feeling v strong for it.

Did an partial rom OAC starting with arm @ about ~130 degrees on both arms.  :personal-record: [Was actually not quite full effort either, so I'm getting super close to having the skill on lock. Going to be hyped out of my mind when I get it. Will try to get footage. It's likely to happen in a climbing gym rather than at home, I think, since my bar is not very suitable.]

563
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: December 31, 2019, 11:52:20 am »
31/12/2019

BW - 69.1

Workout

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+24 x 1

Assisted OAC
-16 x 1
-8 x 1
-5 x 1 [from bottom on left, had to start with slightly bent arm on right]
-16 x 3, 3

Hangs
HC@24mm
BW x 5s
HC@21mm
BW x 5s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
+8 x 8s, 8s, 8s

Dips
BW x 5
+16 x 6, 6, 6

Planche Leans
BW x 10s, 10s

Notes

Solid workout. Right arm feels weaker coming out of the bottom on OAC, even if elsewhere strength feels very similar.

That's 2019 done. Not trained as consistently as I would have liked, but it's one of my better years probably. Getting injured sucked, though if that hadn't happened I probably would not be into climbing/so close on OAC, so I can't be too upset about it.

Lighter workout on chins/grip stuff than usual as I'm climbing Thursday.

Weight creeping up slowly. Been eating out a lot and having lots of big family meals, etc. Will try to arrest that, and maybe drift back towards 67.x, so that the cut to <65 isn't too big a thing when I make that move some time in the new year.

Happy New Year everyone!

564
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: December 29, 2019, 11:07:37 am »
29/12/19

Climbing

~75 mins

Did some Moonboard climbing. It's a cool thing -- standardised set of holds that lots of gyms have. People can set their own routes for you to climb, and they upload them to an app. You connect your phone with bluetooth and you can make the problems light up on the board. Anyway, even the easiest problems on it are a bit hard for me at the minute, and I really need to work on my footwork with it. Just very different to what I'm used too -- very overhang and has small holds. Good for strength, though, so can't wait to get the hang of it.

Saw Max Milne at the gym, think he came like 4th at the last world youth climbing championships. He's on another level, it's nuts.

565
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: December 26, 2019, 12:26:12 pm »
26-12-19

BW - 68.8

Workout

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+ 8 x 2
+ 24 x 1

Assisted OAC
-16 x 1
-8 x 1, 1, 1, 1

Deadhangs
HC@24mm
BW x 5s
HC@21mm
BW x 5s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
+8 x 7, 7, 7, 7, 7

Dips
BW x 5
+8 x 8, 8, 8

Planche Leans
BW x 10s, 10s

Notes

Think when I'm hitting strong doubles at -8 on assisted OACs I'll be very close.

566
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: December 23, 2019, 04:01:38 pm »
23/12/19

On the plus side, have got my fiancee into strength training, on the down side I forgot the pan I took out the oven would have a hot handle and burned my right hand. Hopefully the latter heals up soon, as it doesn't seem _too_ bad...

567
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: December 22, 2019, 01:06:05 pm »
22/12/19

Climb

~2 hours -- managed a "blue" route at the gym for the first time, and then climbed a second one. They're graded v4-6, fwiw. Very stoked on that. Amusingly my best style of climb isn't really strength based/big move routes, but ones where balance or leg strength are the main thing (the first blue one involved doing almost a pistol squat from an awkward position, so it's good I can still do those).

At the end of the climbing sesh, I did some OAC negatives, for fun. One @ BW on each arm, then two + 4kg on each arm just for larks. Doing weighted negatives is probably not super smart, especially while fatigued, but whatever I wanted to give it a go. Could control pretty well all the way down to the bottom. Have to say it is way nicer doing OAC work on a pullup bar that you have to jump up to, and which has loads of space to its sides, as compared to a cramped chinup tower...

Anyway, super awesome session.

568
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: December 19, 2019, 06:52:47 am »
Quote from: adarqui on December 18, 2019, 11:06:58 pm
Quote from: Joe on December 18, 2019, 11:20:17 am
18/12/19

Climb ~ 90 mins

90 min climb that sounds fun. at one of those walls?

yeah man, there's a ton of bouldering gyms around london, it's really a growing sport. My sessions are still a little bit incoherent, I don't quite go frequently enough yet to have a thorough sense of how to implement a more structured sort of training. If I want to make proper improvements I need to be going 2-3/week, which I might make an effort to do once I've got the OAC...

569
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: December 18, 2019, 11:20:17 am »
18/12/19

Climb ~ 90 mins

570
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: December 15, 2019, 12:25:52 pm »
15-12-10

BW - 67.7

Workout

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+24 x 1

OAC negatives
-16 x 7s
BW x 10s, 10s, 7s

Assisted OACs
-16 x 2, 2  :personal-record:

Deadhangs
HC@24mm
BW x 5s
HC@21mm
BW x 5s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
HC@15mm
BW x 7s, 7s, 7s, 7s, 7s

Dips
BW x 5
+8 x 8, 8, 8

Notes

Still sore from climbing. Still sad from Thursday, fucking apocalyptic result.

Anyway

10s negatives feels like a good milestone. Similarly, I had never hit a double on any OAC thing, no matter how assisted, and that feels big to me, since they were done totally deadhang. Being able to break that deadhang bottom position twice, even with assistance, feels like a strong step in the right direction.

Climb wednesday, may (should?) start running again before then.

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