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Messages - Joe

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766
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: February 28, 2020, 09:21:10 am »
BW- 69.4

Workout

Pushups
BW x 10, 10

Pushbacks
BW x 18, 16, 15

Pinch Block Holds
8 x 5s, 5s
10.5 x 3s
13 x 3s, 3s, 5s, 5s
8 x 40s

SS1A IYWs
lower traps on left side so weak, must sort that out!

SS1B 4 Finger Open Hand Hangs
BW@24mm x 15s, 15s,  15s

Notes

Feels kind of bonkers how weak shoulder stability stuff is on left side.

Doing some light grip stuff, a bit weak obvs since I climbed yesterday, but not sure I'll make it to climbing gym this weekend so felt like tacking it on to a shoulder rehab focussed sesh.

Left shoulder a bit sore after yesteday's climb -- think a particular gaston move I ended up trying it was tweaked it -- just no good in wide positions. Shuold recover up.  Need to be doing my IWYs and pushups more regularly.

Felt kind of flabby lately, but BW is stable -- might be psychological (ate a lot of candy last few days, haha), but not sure.

767
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: February 27, 2020, 08:12:59 am »
27-02-20

Climbing

~90 mins

Finger feeling a little better yet again. Getting psyched for when I can give full efforts with it again.

768
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: February 24, 2020, 08:01:50 am »
24-02-20

Climbing

~90 mins

including rehab hangs (4 x ~30s on easy slopers) + some OAC isos.

finger still maybe like 70%.

769
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: February 21, 2020, 11:42:14 am »
21-02-20

Rehab workout

pinch
8kg x 30s, 30s, 30s, 30s

Hang on fingerboard jug
BW x 30s, 30s, 30s

+ rice bucket, etc

770
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: February 19, 2020, 12:15:11 pm »
19-02-20

Climbing

~1.5 hours

meh

felt strong, etc, but just couldn't crank on right hand today, alas. kept it pretty light. hopefully has a rehabilitative effect, getting blood flow, etc. a bunch of cool routes at this gym i really wanted to try hard on -- hopefully hand is recovered before they're reset

Did some OAC work, something like this

ISO @ 90/120*
BW x RLRLRL, RLRLRL, RLRL
then an eccentric on each arm from 90* to straight

after that I did two sets of doubles of weighted pullups to see where i was with that. 32kg was very easy, and 36kg was also pretty easy. happy to hit that for a double. never really trained pullups, and haven't really done any weighted chins for ages, so that i can hit an easy double @ over 50% bw is nice. Maybe i should be doing weighted pullups just to work more brute strength, dunno. Anyway, that's a solid ~106kg x 2 on pullups, iirc my chinup PB was 114.6 x 1, so i reckon i can probably beat that now. get back down to 65kg and i'll be storming.

shoulder have felt great lately -- attribute that to those pushbacks, i guess?




771
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: February 17, 2020, 11:10:50 am »
17-02-20

BW - 70.0

Workout

Some chins/scap pulls/serratus pushups etc to warm up

Deadhangs
HC@24mm
BW x 3s, 3s, 5s
HC@21mm
BW x 5s
HC@18mm
BW x 1s, 3s
HC@15mm
BW x 3s

Repeaters
HC@18mm
2 x 5 x (6 on / 3 off) -- Pretty close to failure on second set

Pinch block
5 x 5s
8 x 5s
10.5 x 5s
13 x 5s, 5s, 5s

Foot elevated pushbacks [https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PLAD357FF6D01777E3&v=neypL5llLxY]
BW x 6, 6

Pushbacks
BW x 8, 8

Notes

This finger injury is so weird to me. I can (half) crimp basically near max with no pain, but open hand is excruciating. Anyway, feels like the open hand part is recovering along too, and it's nice to be still be able to train other things hard (seems the consensus is it is good to keep training other aspects of finger strength while this is recovering, as far as I can tell).

Pinch block fun as heck to train with. Don't really know what the gold standard is, but I guess getting to around 50% BW is a good goal, since that means you could hang off two of them without the benefit of compression, theoretically. (having looked this up, half bw is pretty elite, lmao -- yeah, elite climber Magnus Midbto, who weighs abt my weight, does ~41kg on this on the IronMind one [mine is grip genie -- idk which is easier/harder])

Pushbacks seem to really get my serratus going, and are pretty tough. Need to be doing more scapular strengthening stuff, esp for antagonist things like pushups, since that feels like a weakness and is potentially implicated in the shoulder pain I've been having.

Weight going up slowly -- not really bothered, think it is slow enough + I have been training (hard) enough that it probably means a decent amount of it is muscle. GF says I'm looking thicker so I'll take her word for it. Hoping to reap the benefits when I cut in 4-6 weeks.

Rest tmrw, climb Wednesday probably.

772
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: February 16, 2020, 01:25:35 pm »
16-02-20

Finger feeling better today than yesterday after session, and feeling like it's recovering in general, so that's good.

Quite sore, but not as bad as I would have thought, given I hadn't cllimbed for a week and did some heavy OAC stuff. No forearm soreness at all -- that's less surprising, since I didn't really do any super grip intensive stuff, owing to finger.

My GF got me a pinch block as a gift, which I have had some fun playing around with today. Just tying my weights to it, since I don't have a loading pin -- may get one of those in future, but this system is working fine for now. Pinch feels like a weakness for me in climbing, so this will be a fun way to work on it. Despite it being open hand, it didn't cause any pain for my injured finger, so that's nice.

773
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: February 15, 2020, 01:08:14 pm »
15-02-20

Climbing

~2 hours

Phew! If I'm careful with my route selection I can basically avoid pain. Made a silly choice near the end and felt some pain, but it subsided quickly, so I'm feeling positive. Will see how everything is tomorrow -- possibly it was just being warm meant I couldn't feel pain, but I'm optimistic.

Did some OAC negatives/lock off @ 90/120* during the session, can hold those lock off for 5+ seconds now solidly, which is nice.

774
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: February 13, 2020, 08:30:45 am »
13-02-20

Finger progressing well. Will have a light climb on Saturday, I think, to see how it is.

Working on shoulder stuff as well. Wall slides seem essential. Always know that I ought to be doing them, but never have the consistency for it. Did a short set today and, shit, my lats are so tight. Traps/external rotators burning just from holding arms against the wall in the top position. Got to master this!

775
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: February 10, 2020, 10:14:15 am »
10-02-2020

Doing rehab for finger + shoulder prehab (
)

776
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: February 09, 2020, 06:15:33 am »
09-02-2020

Seen physio, am feeling a bit more mellow, reckon about 3-4 weeks until it's mostly recovered. Sadly it's basically exactly what I'd been planning to combat -- i.e. was going to train more 3 finger hangs, and what I've injured is basically a weakness caused by not enough 3 fingers hangs. Luckily the pain has subsided in other positions, so I think I'll be able to to OAC work still pretty soon. Still effing painful in lots of positions, though!

777
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: February 07, 2020, 04:49:23 am »
Right hand is fucked up  :raging:

So annoyed about this, didn't really do anything wrong in the session, didn't push my climbing too hard, just had one unlucky slip at the end and made everything way worse.

On the up side, I have no soreness from yesterday's session, despite OAC negatives. However, given the state of my right hand I'm not sure when next I'll be able to hang from a pullup bar, let alone hang one handed on that hand...

778
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: February 06, 2020, 11:29:59 am »
06-02-20

Climbing

~2 hours

After 45 minutes or so took a break to do the following:

OAC negative
BW x RLRL, RL, RL

Felt a bit weaker than earlier this week, but fine with that as I think it'll take a bit for recovery to catch up + this was close to a big meal.

Back to climbing, finger feeling good. Could try hard stuff without pain and it felt like it was improving. Then disaster, dry fire off a hold right near planned end session with my right hand, majorly worsening the injury. Feels way worse, but very similar otherwise, to the right ring finger thing I had like a year ago or so. Sigh.

779
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: February 05, 2020, 05:09:14 pm »
05-02-20

Finger feels like 85% recovered, should be enough for a light climb + OAC training sesh tmrw. Frustrating to keep getting these little niggles, but hopefully they'll just clear up with more time spent climbing/adapting + some specific strength work.

My broad plan is a 6 week cycle 2xweek OAC negative work + maybe one other climbing sesh, then assess. Likely at that point I start a cut and aim to get to 65kg or lower

780
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: February 03, 2020, 10:02:12 am »
03-02-2020

Ring finger on right hand a little sore. Think it's either from a route I did that had some two-finger pockets, or some a move I kept trying that involved jumping out to quite a small hold with my right hand. Or a combo. Didn't hurt during the session, only felt it first at about bed time. I think that's hopefully a good sign that it's not too major and just sorts itself out in a few days. Also think it is a sign that I should be doing some open hand/3 fingers stuff in my hangboarding, and not just half crimp, just to get more adapted to that position + condition the ring finger in particular, since both of mine have been injury prone.

Biceps, lats, triceps and brachioradialis are mega sore today. That's what OAC eccentrics will do, I guess. Good sign, though, that I can do them pretty strognly without actually being all that adapted to them. Gains to be made by practicing them for sure.

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