- warm up dreadmill run
- mobilizations
-
climbing strength test-- max weight hang on a 20mm edge x 5s: +51 pounds (130% bw)
-- pull up 1RM: +51 pounds (130% bw)
-- hanging L-sit for time: 30s
-- two-hand hang for time: 1:04
pretty interesting! on the scale that the test uses, each exercise scores a maximum of ten points, with an extra point given at a series of milestones. i scored 4+4+6+2=16. my maximum finger strength is low-middling, my maximum pulling strength is low-middling. i think i could have done a bit more weight for each of those exercises, but the increments are 10% of bw and i was not getting to 140% (i.e., +68.5 at my pre-workout bodyweight of 167). i actually tried +67 for the 20mm hang and got at most 3s. +51 for the pull-up wasn't a grind but it was hard. weights are rounded up because i was using plates so 2.5 lbs is the smallest unit.
continuing on: my core strength is high-middling. i could have kept going on the L-sit but thought 30s gave the maximum points for it (turns out it's actually 20s, which is flat-out easy for me); the next level up for that exercise is a 5s front lever, which i don't think i can do at all. but maybe i should try!
finally, my forearm strength endurance is low. the two-hand hang absolutely sucked, it started hurting within the first 30s and while i might have had a few more seconds in me, there was no way i was making it to the 3-point mark at 1:30.
supposedly, that puts me at about the strength level to do 7b+/5.12c/V6, not accounting for skill. i haven't sport/lead climbed since i was a teenager but given where my bouldering is it seems about right. i don't think i've climbed higher than V5 in the gym but i think i'm strong enough to do a little bit more and at the moment i'm held back by skill. and, apparently, simple endurance. i do get pumped out pretty easily, so i guess that scans. anyway, it's nice to have some data.
- climb x an hour
need to take at least a few days off, my elbows are tired.
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